Landscape Lighting in Cary, Raleigh & the Triangle
Low-voltage landscape lighting that makes your home safer and stunning after dark — path, accent, and architectural lighting, installed and serviced by a local team.
Curb appeal and safety, after the sun goes down
The right landscape lighting turns a yard you only see in daylight into one you enjoy every evening — and it makes walkways, steps, and entries safer. We design and install low-voltage LED systems: warm, efficient, and long-lasting, with fixtures placed to highlight the trees, architecture, and paths that make your home look its best.
Because we’re already the team that knows your irrigation and your yard, we lay lighting in without tearing up turf or hitting sprinkler lines — and we service what we install: transformers, wiring, and fixtures. New system or a tired one that needs fixtures replaced and re-aimed, we handle both.
Landscape lighting services
Design, install, and repair — all low-voltage LED.
Low-voltage LED installation
A designed system of warm, efficient LED fixtures placed to light your home at its best.
Path & walkway lighting
Safe, welcoming light along walks, steps, and entries.
Uplighting & accent lighting
Trees, architecture, and features lit to add depth and drama after dark.
Transformer & wiring repair
Diagnose and repair the transformer, wiring, and connections that cause outages.
Fixture replacement & re-aim
Swap failed or dated fixtures and re-aim the ones that have drifted.
Smart & timer control
Set your lighting on a timer or smart control so it runs itself dusk to dawn.
Choose your town
Every town has its own page, written for local water rules and conditions. All six core towns are live.
Cary, NC
Raleigh, NC
Apex, NC
Morrisville, NC
Holly Springs, NC
Fuquay-Varina, NC
Why add landscape lighting
Curb appeal
A lit home stands out and feels finished — and it helps resale.
Safety
Lit paths, steps, and entries prevent trips and deter trouble.
We know your yard
The same local team that handles your irrigation installs lighting without hitting a line.
What each fixture type is actually for
Most tired-looking lighting schemes come from one fixture being asked to do every job. A path light is a small hat on a stem — it throws light down and outward in a circle so you can read where the walk goes, and it was never meant to light anything above knee height. An uplight, or bullet, is the opposite: a narrow beam pointed at one thing, a trunk, a column, a chimney stack. Wash lights spread a wide, soft sheet across a flat surface like a brick face or a garage wall, where a narrow beam would leave a hot stripe and dark corners.
Step and hardscape fixtures tuck under a tread or a wall cap and light only the surface in front of them. Then there’s moonlighting — a fixture mounted high in a hardwood and aimed down through the branches, so what lands on the lawn is dappled shadow instead of a spotlight. Pair the type to the target and a yard gains depth. Get it wrong and you end up with a runway of path lights down the drive and a house that still vanishes at dusk.
Recent work around the Triangle
What our Triangle neighbors say
Why we run low voltage instead of line voltage
Line voltage lighting is 120 volts of house current, run in conduit at code depth, and relocating a single fixture means digging that conduit back up. A low-voltage system puts a transformer at the house that drops the supply to roughly 12 to 15 volts before it ever reaches the yard. That one change makes everything downstream easier. Cable is safe to handle, it can be buried a few inches under mulch or turf rather than trenched, and a fixture that ended up in the wrong spot gets pulled and reset in minutes.
It also matters that your yard already has things buried in it. Irrigation laterals, valve wire, and drip tubing live in the same top few inches of soil we’re working in, so we probe and hand-dig around them — a nicked lateral turns a lighting job into an irrigation repair nobody budgeted for. Low voltage keeps the draw modest even with two dozen fixtures on the property, and when a connection eventually fails, what you get is a dark fixture rather than a hazard in the ground.
Transformer capacity and the fixtures you add later
A transformer is rated in watts, and the math looks simple: total the fixtures, allow headroom, buy that size. Headroom is the part people skip. Sized tight to the original count, a transformer has nothing left when the beds get extended, a new tree goes in, or the back patio finally gets finished — and the usual response, hanging four more fixtures on an already-loaded run, dims everything at the far end.
That fading is voltage drop, and it’s the most common complaint on a system we inherit. We see plenty of it in older Cary neighborhoods where the planting beds have been extended twice since the lighting went in: fixtures near the house look right, the ones out by the mailbox look weak and brownish. We size for the system you’ll have, not the one you’re buying today. Long runs get split into separate legs or wired back to a hub instead of daisy-chained, so no fixture sits alone at the end of a hundred feet of cable, and a multi-tap transformer lets us feed a distant leg from a higher tap to make up the loss. Every lead gets labeled while we’re there.
Color temperature and aiming, both settled after dark
Halogen ran warm by default — you didn’t pick a color, you got roughly 2700K and lived with it. LED made it a decision. Warm 2700K flatters brick, cedar, and anything with red or brown in it; move toward 3000K and gray stone or pale stucco reads cleaner. Push past that into cool white and planting beds go flat and gray and the whole front of the house takes on the character of a parking lot. Consistency matters more than the exact number, though. Two temperatures on one facade is what the eye catches first, and it usually traces back to somebody replacing three dead fixtures with whatever was on the shelf.
Aiming is the other half, and it can’t be done at noon. We set fixtures during the day and return after dark to adjust each one, checking glare from the sidewalk, from the driveway, and from inside your own front windows — the angle everyone forgets. That aim isn’t permanent. A bullet trained on a young maple’s canopy is pointed at bare trunk a few seasons on, and path lights disappear into shrubs that were knee-high at install. Plan on a re-aim visit.
Landscape lighting FAQ
Is landscape lighting energy-efficient?
Yes — we install low-voltage LED systems that use very little power and last for years.
How much does landscape lighting cost?
It depends on the size of the design and number of fixtures, so we quote after walking the property. Estimates are free.
Can you repair my existing lighting?
Yes — we fix transformers, wiring, and connections and replace or re-aim fixtures, even on systems we didn’t install.
Can it run on a timer automatically?
Yes — we set your lighting on a timer or smart control so it comes on at dusk and off at dawn on its own.
Light up your home after dark
Design and install low-voltage landscape lighting with a local team. Free estimate.
Get your free landscape lighting quote
Tell us what’s going on and we’ll get right back to you — usually the same day. Prefer to talk? Call or text 919-341-9644.
- Local, licensed & insured
- Upfront pricing — no surprises
- 100% guarantee + 12-month workmanship warranty